Florence, Fabulous Food and Flocks of People

After a pretty easy time dropping off the rental car in Chiusi and a two-hour train ride, we arrived in Florence. We met the housekeeper for the apartment where we will stay and had a few communication issues since she explained how to work things here in Italian. But I think we've figured everything out and we've settled in. This is our least favorite apartment so far; it's just a little tired and needs some attention but the location is good.

Of course, our first stop had to be Mercato Centrale. By the time we got there, the first floor was closed for the day so we went up to check out the new second level. Actually, I think this floor was completed a few years ago but it wasn't open when we were here last. The entire floor is like a huge food court of Italian foods. In the center of this large space is a big bar and all the food options surround it.

One of the many food options

And the bar

We will definitely go back there often for lunch or even dinner. We had an early lunch on the train so thought we needed to try out at least one of the booths. So we shared a bowl of cauliflower, leek, and potato soup. Very good.

I wanted to at least see the Duomo on our first day here so we walked by on our way home. This year, I don't see any scaffolding covering up part of it. I really think it is the most beautiful church .... actually the most beautiful building.... I've ever seen. It just knocks me over every time I see it. I'll post a photo later when Greg gets his camera going.

Dinner last night was at Trattoria Pandmonio di Casa Brogi. We picked it because it gets great reviews, it's easy to make a reservation using The Fork app (similar to Open Table), and it's in the Oltrano (across the Arno) so it meant we could walk across the city after dinner. I always think Florence is best at night. The food was amazing and so was the energy and friendliness of the staff.

We started with an antipasto of cooked asparagus with poached egg on top. Such a simple thing and yet absolutely delicious. You'll notice there's no picture. We snarfed it down before I even thought of getting out my phone.

Greg's osso bucco - he said it was one of the best he's had

My meatballs - maybe not the best choice but ok

Fried artichokes! Amazing!

House wine served in a very cool (and now empty) bottle. And then the lemoncello appears after dinner!

This morning we found a local bar for cappuccino and then wandered down to the Medici Chapels. We really liked the marble in the larger chapel and although a good part of it is now under reconstruction, it is very impressive. There's also a separate chapel designed by Michelangelo. This is just one example of a place that many tourists don't see but it is worth the time to visit. Of course, I'm saying this as someone who has been here three times and still is overwhelmed by the idea of going to the Uffizi. Smaller places like this hold more appeal for me.

The alter  - very different in look and color than others

One of the Medicis is in there but just not sure which one

Back to the Mercato Centrale to see if anything was exciting on the first floor. You can easily become overwhelmed here with the variety of foods.

So many different kinds of prosciutto

Colorful dried fruits

Tons of dried mushrooms

I don't even want to know

So this blog is getting really boring. Walk a lot. Eat a lot. Walk a lot. Eat a lot. So sorry but this is kind of what we do. We spent most of today just walking around Florence. I'd read before we came that the crowds here have become unbearable. The challenge is to find places where it's quieter, those small little streets where you are the only people around. Most of the tourists stay in the same places like this road to Ponte Vecchio.

So today we tried to find some of those quieter parts of Florence, and fortunately they are still there to discover.

OK, just a few more food pictures and then I'm done. We just came back from a very fabulous and fun dinner at Antica Trattoria da Tito. This is just half a block from our apartment and is far from the center of town. The staff is young and very fun as the American rock music blares. I asked our young waiter, Lorenzo, if he liked Motown (the Temptations were playing) and he had no idea what that was but he said he loved the music and wanted to dance. And, by the way, the food was fabulous. We may have to break my rule and go back a second time to the same place!

Ragu on Grilled Polenta (NW, Dad said this was like your beloved Sloppy Joes! But oh so much better)

Greg's veal chop

And my filet with cognac and walnuts. And I believe there was a lot of cream involved..

Lots more from Florence to come. Greg promises to take his camera tomorrow.